Verona is one of northern Italy's most beautiful cities — a compact historic centre enclosed by medieval walls, with a remarkably intact Roman amphitheatre at its heart. The Arena di Verona, built in 30 AD, still hosts opera performances every summer — one of the great outdoor concert experiences in Europe.
The city's medieval streets reward slow exploration. The Piazza delle Erbe — the old Roman forum — is lined with market stalls, medieval towers and frescoed facades. The so-called Juliet's House on Via Cappello draws tourists, but the real Verona is found in the Osterie tucked into the backstreets of the Veronetta neighbourhood across the Adige river.
Verona's position makes it an ideal base for the region. Lake Garda's southern shore is 30 minutes west — Peschiera and Lazise for the lake experience, Sirmione for the Roman ruins peninsula. The Dolomites are 1.5 hours north via the A22 motorway — Bolzano in 1h, Trento in 45 minutes, Cortina in 2.5 hours.
Verona wine is world-class — Amarone della Valpolicella, Soave and Bardolino are all produced in the hills immediately surrounding the city. The Valpolicella wine region is 15 minutes northwest — one of Italy's great wine day trips.
Coperto (cover charge) is normal in restaurants — it's on the menu. Rifugio bunks sell out weeks ahead on popular Dolomites routes.